You have a jumping spider, or you’re about to get one. This guide covers everything you need to keep it healthy: enclosure setup, temperature, humidity, feeding by life stage, the molting process, handling, and how to spot early signs of illness. Each section links to a dedicated deep-dive when you want more detail.
Not sure yet whether a jumping spider is right for you? Start with are jumping spiders good pets, then come back here once you’ve decided.
Key Takeaways
- Jumping spider care means getting four things right: a vertical, cross-ventilated enclosure; appropriate-sized live prey every 2 to 5 days; a humidity gradient via spot misting; and 10 to 12 hours of daily light.
- Phidippus regius (regal jumping spider) is the best beginner species: forgiving, widely captive-bred, large enough to observe easily, and interactive.
- All jumping spiders are arboreal. Their enclosure must be taller than it is wide, with airflow entering and exiting from different sides.
- Prey must never exceed half the spider’s body length. This is the one non-negotiable feeding rule.
- A spider that stops eating and seals itself into its web hammock is almost certainly in premolt. Remove all live prey and do not disturb it.
- Jumping spiders are solitary: one spider per enclosure, always.
- A shriveled, raisin-like abdomen means dehydration. Increase misting immediately.
- Lifespan is 1 to 3 years; females always live longer than males.
Jumping spider care at a glance
Before diving into each topic, here is the complete quick-reference for Phidippus regius, the recommended beginner species. Use this as your daily reference.
| Parameter | Recommended range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Enclosure orientation | Vertical (taller than wide) | Arboreal species; height matters more than floor space |
| Minimum adult enclosure | 20 x 20 x 30 cm (8 x 8 x 12 in) | Bigger is fine; smaller causes stress |
| Daytime temperature | 24 to 28 C (75 to 82 F) | Most heated homes need no supplemental heat |
| Night-time minimum | 18 C (65 F) | Brief cool periods are tolerated |
| Ambient humidity | 50 to 65% | Create a gradient, not uniform dampness |
| Misting frequency | Every 2 to 3 days, one corner only | Let the other side dry between mistings |
| Lighting | 10 to 12 hours per day | LED strip or desk lamp on a timer |
| Feeding frequency, spiderling | Every 1 to 2 days | Tiny prey, frequently |
| Feeding frequency, juvenile | Every 2 to 3 days | Move up prey size as the spider grows |
| Feeding frequency, adult | Every 3 to 5 days | One appropriately sized prey item |
| Max prey size | Half the spider’s body length | Non-negotiable; oversized prey can injure |
| Cohabitation | Never | Solitary species; cannibalism results |
Which jumping spider is best for beginners?
Phidippus regius (regal jumping spider) is the right first jumping spider for most people. It tolerates normal home temperatures of 24 to 28 C without supplemental heating, accepts common feeder insects, grows to 12 to 22 mm for easy observation, and is widely available as captive-bred across the US and Europe. Many individuals become genuinely curious about their keepers, making it one of the most interactive invertebrates in the hobby.
For keepers who want something smaller and North-American native, Phidippus audax (bold jumping spider) is a close second: equally hardy and widely available. Saitis barbipes is a reasonable intermediate choice. Hyllus diardi and Portia species require more precise humidity and temperature management and are better reserved for keepers who have already kept another jumping spider successfully.
For the full species-specific breakdown on regal jumping spiders, see the Phidippus regius care guide.
Species comparison
| Feature | Phidippus regius | Phidippus audax | Hyllus diardi | Saitis barbipes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Common name | Regal jumping spider | Bold jumping spider | Heavy jumping spider | Bearded-foot spider |
| Adult body length | 12 to 22 mm | 13 to 20 mm | 10 to 15 mm | 5 to 7 mm |
| Temperature | 24 to 28 C | 22 to 26 C | 26 to 29 C | 24 to 27 C |
| Humidity | 50 to 65% | 50 to 65% | 70 to 80% | 50 to 60% |
| Beginner rating | Excellent | Excellent | Intermediate | Good |
| Handleability | High | Moderate to high | Moderate | Low to moderate |
| Captive-bred availability | Very high | High | Moderate | Moderate |
Hyllus diardi requires consistently warm, high-humidity conditions. Without careful management, mold risk rises quickly. Start with Phidippus until you have one successful molt under your belt.
Enclosure setup
The enclosure is the single most important purchase you will make. Get this right and the rest of the care routine is straightforward.
Size and orientation
Because jumping spiders are arboreal, they live, hunt, and sleep in vertical space. Your spider will spend most of its time in the upper third of the enclosure, where it builds its silk retreat hammock. Floor area matters far less than height.
The minimum enclosure for an adult P. regius is 20 x 20 x 30 cm (roughly 8 x 8 x 12 inches). For spiderlings and small juveniles, a 12 x 12 x 20 cm starter enclosure makes it easier to place prey within striking distance. You can move them to a larger enclosure as they grow.
For specific enclosure models that get ventilation and sizing right, see our best enclosures for jumping spiders guide.
Cross-ventilation
Cross-ventilation means airflow entering from one side of the enclosure and exiting from another: a mesh lid combined with side vents, or a mesh front combined with a mesh top.
Stagnant, humid air is the single biggest environmental risk for captive jumping spiders. It promotes mold and bacterial growth that can cause fatal respiratory infections. Never use a glass fish tank with a solid lid. Purpose-built invertebrate enclosures with mesh panels are the correct tool for this job.
Substrate and decor
Line the floor with 3 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) of coconut fiber (coco coir), sphagnum moss, or a mix of both. The substrate cushions falls (jumping spiders miss occasionally) and helps buffer moisture at the bottom of the enclosure.
Add one piece of cork bark or a thin branch positioned in the upper third of the enclosure. This gives your spider an anchor point for its silk hammock retreat. A bamboo skewer angled across the upper corner is a popular, inexpensive option that works very well. You do not need to fill the enclosure with plants and decorations; one or two anchor points is enough.
For detailed substrate options and their trade-offs, see our jumping spider substrate guide.
Temperature and lighting
Temperature
Phidippus regius is a subtropical species from the southeastern United States and Caribbean. It thrives at 24 to 28 C (75 to 82 F) during the day. A normally heated home in a temperate climate usually does not need any supplemental heating for this species. Verify the actual temperature inside the enclosure with a small digital thermometer rather than assuming room temperature is sufficient.
Hyllus diardi requires consistently warmer conditions (26 to 29 C / 79 to 84 F), which is one reason it is not recommended for beginners. A thermostat-controlled heat mat on the back panel of the enclosure is the standard solution for Hyllus keepers.
Avoid placing any enclosure in direct sunlight. Even a few minutes of direct sun through glass can raise internal temperatures to lethal levels.
Lighting
Jumping spiders are visual hunters adapted to bright daylight. A poorly lit enclosure produces a spider that hides, refuses food, and is difficult to assess for health. Aim for 10 to 12 hours of light per day from a desk lamp or LED strip positioned above the enclosure. A simple outlet timer keeps the cycle consistent without any effort on your part.
Full-spectrum or UVB lighting is not strictly required for Phidippus, though some keepers observe more active basking behavior with low-level UVB. It is worth adding if you already own a compatible fixture.
Humidity and water
Creating a gradient
The correct approach to humidity is to create a gradient: one moist corner and one dry corner. Mist a single corner (or a clump of sphagnum moss on one side) every 2 to 3 days. Let the rest of the enclosure dry between sessions. Your spider moves to whichever zone suits its needs.
Ambient humidity of 50 to 65% suits Phidippus well. Aiming for uniform dampness throughout the enclosure is a mistake: it creates chronic over-humidity, promotes mold, and stresses the spider.
Drinking water
Water droplets on the enclosure walls after misting serve as drinking water. You will sometimes see your spider walk deliberately to the wall and drink; this is a good sign. Never use a standing water dish with jumping spiders. They can drown in surprisingly shallow water.
Dehydration
Dehydration is one of the two most common care mistakes (the other is oversized prey). The clearest sign is a shriveled, raisin-like abdomen. A healthy abdomen is round and plump. If you notice shriveling, increase misting frequency for the next 5 to 7 days and make sure fresh water droplets are available.
For a detailed look at dehydration signs and recovery, see the jumping spider dehydration guide.
Feeding
Jumping spiders are strict insectivores. They need live prey: they hunt by sight and the hunting sequence itself (tracking, stalking, the final leap) is important behavioral enrichment that keeps them mentally engaged.
What to feed by life stage
| Life stage | Body length | Recommended feeders |
|---|---|---|
| Spiderling (instar 1 to 3) | 2 to 6 mm | Drosophila melanogaster (tiny flightless fruit flies) |
| Juvenile (instar 4 to 6) | 6 to 12 mm | Drosophila hydei (larger fruit flies), micro crickets |
| Sub-adult | 12 to 18 mm | Small crickets, bottle flies, small dubia roach nymphs |
| Adult | 15 to 22 mm (P. regius) | Crickets, bottle flies, dubia roaches; waxworms as treats |
The instar numbers above are approximate for Phidippus. Other genera vary.
The one rule that is not negotiable
Prey must not exceed half the spider’s body length. Oversized prey stresses the spider, can cause injury during the hunt, and is especially dangerous near a molt when the exoskeleton is soft. If in doubt, go smaller.
Gut-loading feeders
Gut-loading means feeding your feeder insects nutritious food (fresh vegetables, oats, a commercial gut-load product) for 24 hours before offering them to your spider. What the feeder ate, your spider eats too. This step takes two minutes and significantly improves nutritional quality.
Feeding frequency
- Spiderlings: every 1 to 2 days
- Juveniles: every 2 to 3 days
- Adults: every 3 to 5 days
A spider that refuses food for 1 to 2 weeks is almost certainly approaching a molt. Do not force-feed or increase offer frequency. Remove the prey, wait, and check for premolt signs.
Always remove live prey within 24 hours if your spider has not taken it. Crickets especially will harass a resting or premolt spider and can cause serious injury.
For a full breakdown of every feeder type, sizing, sourcing, and storage, see the what jumping spiders eat guide. For live feeder insect options, the best feeder insects for jumping spiders review covers what experienced keepers use.
Molting
Molting (or moulting) is how a spider grows. It sheds its entire outer exoskeleton (the cuticle) and expands into a larger one. Every growth stage requires a molt. Phidippus regius molts approximately 9 times across its life.
Premolt signs
Watch for these signs 3 to 14 days before a molt:
- Food refusal lasting 5 to 14 days (sometimes longer before the final adult molt)
- Retreat into the silk hammock with little or no emergence
- Abdomen appears darker or slightly more opaque
- The hammock becomes thicker and more sealed
What to do during a molt
- Remove all live prey immediately. A cricket in the enclosure with a molting spider is a genuine danger.
- Increase misting slightly, once daily near (but not directly on) the hammock.
- Do not disturb the spider. No tapping the enclosure, no opening it.
- The molt itself takes 15 to 45 minutes. Post-molt hardening takes 48 to 72 hours. Wait the full 48 to 72 hours before offering any food, even small prey.
Dysecdysis (stuck molt)
Dysecdysis is a failed or stuck molt. You will see the spider partially emerged from its old skin and not progressing. The most common cause is insufficient humidity during the molt period. If this happens: gently mist the spider and the old exoskeleton with water. Do not spray forcefully and do not attempt to manually remove the old skin. If the spider is not progressing after several hours, contact an exotic veterinarian.
Prevention: maintain the misting routine consistently, and increase misting frequency slightly in the week before an expected molt.
For the complete molt walkthrough including photos of a healthy molt and what dysecdysis looks like, see the jumping spider molting guide.
Handling
Most jumping spiders (Phidippus regius in particular) are remarkably tolerant of careful human interaction. Many individuals become curious about their keepers and walk voluntarily toward a hand placed inside the enclosure.
That tolerance takes a little time to develop. Give your spider at least 2 to 3 feeding sessions to settle in before you attempt any handling. A hungry, newly-arrived spider is not in the right state.
How to start handling
- Open the enclosure and place your hand flat inside, low and still.
- Do not reach for the spider. Let it come to you.
- If the spider retreats, close the enclosure and try again tomorrow. No forcing.
- Keep early sessions to 5 to 10 minutes.
- Always work over a soft surface: a couch cushion, a folded towel, your lap while seated close to the floor.
- Move slowly. Sudden movements trigger a defensive response.
Signs the spider wants to end the session
- Raising the front legs toward you (threat display)
- Turning away repeatedly
- Attempting to jump away and not returning
- Abdomen flattening or curving under
When you see any of these, return the spider to its enclosure calmly. Respecting these signals builds trust over time.
Bites
A bite from a jumping spider is possible but uncommon. The sensation is comparable to a small pinch. For healthy adults, the venom causes minor localized redness or irritation that resolves within a few hours. There are no documented cases of medically significant envenomation from common pet species.
Bites almost always happen when the spider feels restrained or cornered. Not forcing interaction, not squeezing, and not startling the spider makes bites very unlikely.
For full handling technique and body language reading, see the jumping spider handling guide.
Lifespan by species
| Species | Female lifespan | Male lifespan |
|---|---|---|
| Phidippus regius | 1.5 to 3 years | 9 to 15 months |
| Phidippus audax | 1 to 2 years | 8 to 12 months |
| Hyllus diardi | 12 to 18 months | 8 to 12 months |
| Saitis barbipes | 12 to 18 months | 6 to 10 months |
Males live shorter lives across all species. The terminal molt (the final molt after which no further molting occurs) marks the beginning of the end for males; they typically live only a few months afterward. This is normal biology, not a husbandry failure.
Health: what to watch for
A healthy jumping spider is active during daylight, hunts eagerly, and has a round, plump abdomen. Signs that something is wrong:
- Shriveled abdomen: dehydration. Increase misting immediately.
- Prolonged lethargy outside premolt: could be illness, dehydration, or temperature too low.
- Legs curling under the body: a spider in this position is usually dying or critically ill.
- Discoloration or black patches on the abdomen: possible infection or injury.
- Unsuccessful molt: dysecdysis. See the molting section above.
- Persistent food refusal outside premolt: check temperature, hydration, and whether the prey size is appropriate.
For a full checklist of symptoms and what they typically indicate, see the sick jumping spider guide.
Where to get a jumping spider
Always buy captive-bred. Wild-caught jumping spiders arrive stressed, may carry parasites, and are not adapted to enclosure life. Captive-bred spiders are healthier, more handleable, and their purchase supports breeders expanding the hobby responsibly.
Where to look:
- MorphMarket: largest US marketplace for captive-bred invertebrates, with seller ratings and extensive P. regius and P. audax listings
- Bugs In Cyberspace: long-established specialist invertebrate retailer with captive-bred slings
- Spoodville: specialist jumping spider breeder and starter kit retailer
- Local invertebrate expos: often the most affordable option; you can assess the spider’s condition in person before purchasing
What to ask the seller before buying:
- Is this captive-bred? (If they cannot confirm, move on.)
- What instar is it currently?
- What feeders is it currently eating and at what size?
- Has it molted recently?
A P. regius sling typically runs $15 to $35. Juveniles and sub-adults run $25 to $65 depending on sex and color morph. Females cost more because they live longer; both sexes make excellent pets.
For a full breakdown of sources and what to look for, see where to buy a jumping spider and our how much does a jumping spider cost guide.
Common beginner mistakes
1. Enclosure with no cross-ventilation. A sealed tank quickly becomes a mold incubator. Buy purpose-built invertebrate enclosures with mesh panels. Repurposed fish tanks with solid lids are not suitable.
2. Leaving live prey in the enclosure overnight. Crickets bite. A cricket left with a resting or premolt spider can cause serious injury. Remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours.
3. Misting the entire enclosure every day. This creates chronic over-humidity and promotes mold growth. Mist one corner. Let the other side dry out. Repeat every 2 to 3 days.
4. Handling too soon or too aggressively. Let your spider settle in and eat at least 2 to 3 times before you attempt handling. Short, patient sessions teach the spider that your hand is a safe place to explore. Rushing this teaches the spider that hands are stressful.
5. Offering prey right after a molt. A freshly molted spider’s exoskeleton is soft for 48 to 72 hours. Even a small cricket can injure it during this window. Wait until the chelicerae (fangs) look dark and fully hardened before offering food.
Frequently asked questions
How often do jumping spiders need to be fed?
Feed spiderlings every 1 to 2 days, juveniles every 2 to 3 days, and adults every 3 to 5 days. Feeding frequency should track the spider’s abdomen size: if the abdomen looks noticeably smaller than usual between feedings, feed more often.
What do jumping spiders eat?
Jumping spiders eat live insects sized to half their body length or smaller. Fruit flies (Drosophila hydei or D. melanogaster) for juveniles; small crickets, bottle flies, or dubia roach nymphs for sub-adults and adults. They do not eat dead or freeze-dried prey.
Do jumping spiders need a heat lamp?
Usually not for Phidippus regius or P. audax in a normally heated home (22 to 26 C / 72 to 79 F). Verify the temperature inside the enclosure with a small thermometer. If your home drops below 20 C at night regularly, a low-wattage heat mat on the side of the enclosure (not the bottom) on a thermostat can help.
How do I know if my jumping spider is dehydrated?
Look at the abdomen. A healthy abdomen is round and plump. A dehydrated abdomen looks wrinkled, shriveled, or raisin-like. If you see this, mist the enclosure more frequently for a week and ensure water droplets are available for the spider to drink from the walls.
How long do jumping spiders live?
Female P. regius commonly live 1.5 to 3 years with good care. Males of the same species typically live 9 to 15 months. Lifespan across other pet species ranges from 6 months (male Saitis barbipes) to 3 years (female P. regius under optimal conditions).
Can jumping spiders live together?
No. Jumping spiders are solitary predators. Housing two together will result in one being eaten, sometimes within hours. Keep one spider per enclosure at all times.
Next steps and deeper reading
This guide covers jumping spider care at the species-group level. For deeper dives on every topic:
- Phidippus regius care guide: complete species-specific guide for the recommended beginner spider including enclosure setup, feeding schedule, molting, health, and sexing
- What jumping spiders eat: every feeder type, prey sizing by instar, storage, sourcing, and gut-loading
- Best enclosures for jumping spiders: enclosure model reviews with ventilation ratings and keeper recommendations
- Jumping spider molting guide: full molt cycle, premolt signs, dysecdysis, and when to contact a vet
- How to handle a jumping spider: step-by-step introduction, body language reading, and building trust over time
- Jumping spider dehydration: identifying and correcting the most common care mistake
- Bioactive jumping spider enclosure: setting up a self-cleaning live-plant enclosure for long-term keeping
Care information on this page reflects current consensus among experienced keepers and published husbandry resources. For health emergencies, contact a qualified exotic veterinarian.